After London, Tokyo, and New York, the 4th Botrytis Forum took place in September 2012 at the Hotel Icon in Hong Kong. Some 150 journalists, trade professionals, and wine enthusiasts attended a tutored tasting of great wines made thanks to the mysterious noble rot.
On the initiative of Akos Forczek (Top Selection), the forum was created in 2004 by Alexandre de Lur Saluces and three other producers of the world’s greatest botrytised wines: Alois Kracher (Weinlaubenhof Kracher, Burgenland, Austria), Egon Müller (Weingut Egon Müller Scharzhofberg, Mosel, Germany), and István Szepsy (Szepsy, Tokaji, Hungary).
All members are committed to promoting great botrytised wines revolving around four different visions and four different winemaking traditions.
The tasting preceded a dinner at the Hotel Icon restaurant “Above and Beyond” overlooking magnificent Hong Kong bay. The superb wine and food matches showed the extreme versatility of botrytised wines, including some exciting combinations well off the beaten track.
To mention only two examples, 1990 Château de Fargues was served with lamb and panfried onions with cumin. The flavours and spicing went along beautifully with the wine. This great vintage, with its vigour and force of character, is able to stand up to dishes with strong, complex flavours.
The most unusual match of the evening was Egon Muller’s sublime 1989 Riesling Auslese Wiltinger Braune Kupp and braised cabbage with Parma ham in chicken consommé. The acidity and richness of the Riesling, and its botrytised fruit, went beautifully with the dish, creating a seemingly infinite dialogue of flavours.
This magnificent dinner proved the great diversity of fine cuisine and great botrytised wines.
The dishes created by talented chefs showed off these wines, with their astounding power and aromatic complexity, to their best advantage.
The last botrytis forum was a wonderful success!
Philippe de Lur Saluces
20 Octobre 2012